This is how we roll in South Africa.

Hi all,

We're seeing a lot, if not all info on the shark dives in places such as Tiger Beach and Isla Guadalupe so I'm putting in a stance to introduce folks into the way most dives are carried out in south Africa, specifically for the Tiger Shark dives on Aliwal Shoal. 

The eastern south African coastline is rugged and wild. Bearing the full brunt of the Indian Ocean it can sometimes raise questions as to how any wildlife may even suggest at it being their home. At other times it's as calm as the proverbial mill pond, devoid of ripples and crystal clear. It is a living sea of incredible encounters. 

Rugged and foreboding, south African surf can be challenging.

I was sent there on a field assignment in late 2007 for a six month embed. Traveling light I set out on a National Geographic project to help with the study and documentation of the Tiger Shark populations found on the Aliwal Shoal region of KwaZulu Natal. My home for the duration was to be the sleepy village of Umkomaas, some 60km or so south of Durban. 

I'm not going to bore you with the scientific details in this post. I just wanted to compare the apparent methods of attracting the animals and the dive styles between those that are apparent in many of the images here and of the way shark diving, for many, is carried out in south Africa.

Heading out for a day of diving, 'Rubber Duck' in tow.

Much to the chagrin I'm sure of many a south African housewife one single element is required for the mode of diving that's been adopted by the majority of the operators in the region, a washing machine drum. I'm just hoping that the machines had died before any over zealous husband removed it for his fishy antics, but knowing many of the operators in the region it wouldn't surprise me if some of them had tried extracting the drum during the spin cycle! 

Washing machines in south Africa don't last too long!

So you have your washing machine drum, you've battled out through the surf zone in the Rigid Inflatable Boat, affectionately called a 'Rubber Duck' by the locals, your boat captain has driven the 6km or so offshore to the site and you're ready to jump in. Well we need some dinner guests so the operators put together what they call the 'Bait Stem'. 

The bait stem is simply a line of reinforced steel supported at the surface by a substantial enough float or buoy to which the bait drum is then attached. In order to create a slick for the sharks to find the stem, and the divers, it is initially anchored in place relying on the currents to send out an inviting diner invitation. To finish off the whole package a fish carcass is tied off on a line on the surface in order to give warning when a Tiger Shark shows up.

The dinner bell has been sounded!

Over the past years a growing number of Blacktip Sharks (Carcharhinus limbatus) have become an integral aspect of the diving experience here. These guys can show up within minutes of the bait stem hitting the water. These 6 to 9ft sharks are very active throughout the whole dive. Its very wise not to have any small markings on your gear, especially fins, which may spark their interest. I found this out by having the Brand name of my booty manufacturer, a white rubber patch, become the victim of investigation nibbles on a few occasions.

"Uhh, guys, this is a rubber boat, should they be biting it?"

So once the sharks arrive, depending on the number of operators in the area, folks have the option to jump in straight away or wait for the Tiger sharks to turn up. As In order to not fight currents during the dive the 'Bait Stems' are freed from their anchors and then set to drift with the Ocean movements. As the drums are situated between 5 and 10m depth 17/33ft means that the diving is very simple. Hover with the drum off to one side so that you're not in the slick, which is the arrival path for the Tigers, and just enjoy it.

Every now and again the bait drum needs a shake up. Volunteer?

More often than not its only a short wait before the announcement 'Tiger' pierces the air. Its quite amazing at that point how often the same buckle or clip needs to be checked and double checked on the BCD's of the folks making the dive for the first time! And with good reason. The act of jumping in the water for the first time with a fish that's continually painted with the 'Bad Fish' brush is a challenge in anyone's book.

This style of diving could in a way be considered a feed, although there is no actual food reward being given to the sharks. A few sardines scattered in the water to keep the Blacktips happy is about it. There are also fish carcasses tied off on the bait stem for the Tigers as they come in to investigate. These are placed by the dive shop guides, who are also invariably the owners, and who have had a lot of practice and experience with the animals, not to be attempted by clients, under any circumstance! 

Ringing the Dinner, errrmmm, Drum!

The dives generally last about an hour or so depending on the discretion of the operator. Visibility at times can be incredible, 25m+ but it can also change very quickly. An average viz day would see about 10 to 15m. Given also the tempestuous conditions that can kick in at the drop of a hat most dive operations offer one tiger dive per day. The mornings are the calmest times with afternoon forays into the waves something that most tend to shy away from.

Main pointers for divers:

• Listen to your guides, they have the knowledge and understanding of local conditions and of the animals you will be interacting with.
• Equipment: be aware that small contrasting labels are going to invite 'investigation'.
  
• Be aware that you will need to 'hand off' inquisitive tiger sharks.
• You need to feel comfortable in yourself to make these dives. Don't kid yourself.
  
• Obey the dive briefing. Its there for your safety.
• Enjoy the experience.